THE GUIDE TO IOWA’S STATE PRESERVES

By Ruth Herzberg John Pearson

University of Iowa Press

Copyright © 2001 University of Iowa Press
All right reserved.
ISBN: 978-0-87745-774-9

Contents

Acknowledgments……………………………………………….viiHistory and Overview of the State Preserve System…………………ixAmes High Prairie State Preserve………………………………..1Anderson Prairie State Preserve…………………………………3Behrens Ponds and Woodland State Preserve………………………..5Berry Woods State Preserve……………………………………..7Bird Hill State Preserve……………………………………….9Bixby State Preserve…………………………………………..11Bluffton Fir Stand State Preserve……………………………….13Brush Creek Canyon State Preserve……………………………….15Brushy Creek State Preserve…………………………………….17Cameron Woods State Preserve……………………………………19Casey’s Paha State Preserve…………………………………….21Catfish Creek State Preserve……………………………………23Cayler Prairie State Preserve…………………………………..27Cedar Bluffs State Preserve…………………………………….29Cedar Hills Sand Prairie State Preserve………………………….31Cheever Lake State Preserve…………………………………….33Clay Prairie State Preserve…………………………………….35Claybanks Forest State Preserve…………………………………37Cold Water Spring State Preserve………………………………..39Crossman Prairie State Preserve…………………………………41Decorah Ice Cave State Preserve…………………………………43Dinesen Prairie State Preserve………………………………….45Doolittle Prairie State Preserve………………………………..47Fallen Rock State Preserve……………………………………..49Fish Farm Mounds State Preserve…………………………………51Five Ridge Prairie State Preserve……………………………….53Fleming Woods State Preserve……………………………………55Fort Atkinson State Preserve……………………………………57Freda Haffner Kettlehole State Preserve………………………….61Gitchie Manitou State Preserve………………………………….63Hanging Bog State Preserve……………………………………..65Hardin City Woodland State Preserve……………………………..67Hartley Fort State Preserve…………………………………….69Hayden Prairie State Preserve…………………………………..71Indian Bluffs Primitive Area State Preserve………………………75Indian Fish Trap State Preserve…………………………………77Kalsow Prairie State Preserve…………………………………..79Kish-Ke-Kosh Prairie State Preserve……………………………..81Lamson Woods State Preserve…………………………………….83Liska-Stanek Prairie State Preserve……………………………..85Little Maquoketa River Mounds State Preserve……………………..87Malanaphy Springs State Preserve………………………………..89Malchow Mounds State Preserve…………………………………..91Manikowski Prairie State Preserve……………………………….93Mann Wilderness Area State Preserve……………………………..95Marietta Sand Prairie State Preserve…………………………….97Mericle Woods State Preserve……………………………………99Merritt Forest State Preserve…………………………………..101A. F. Miller State Preserve…………………………………….103Montauk State Preserve…………………………………………105Mossy Glen State Preserve………………………………………107Mount Pisgah Cemetery State Preserve…………………………….109Mount Talbot State Preserve…………………………………….111Ocheyedan Mound State Preserve………………………………….113Old State Quarry State Preserve…………………………………115Palisades-Dows State Preserve…………………………………..117Pecan Grove State Preserve……………………………………..119Pellett Woods State Preserve……………………………………121Pilot Grove State Preserve……………………………………..123Pilot Knob State Preserve………………………………………125Retz Woods State Preserve………………………………………127Roberts Creek State Preserve……………………………………129Rock Creek Island State Preserve………………………………..131Rock Island State Preserve……………………………………..133Roggman Boreal Slopes State Preserve…………………………….135Rolling Thunder Prairie State Preserve…………………………..137Saint James Lutheran Church State Preserve……………………….139Savage Woods State Preserve…………………………………….141Searryl’s Cave State Preserve…………………………………..143Sheeder Prairie State Preserve………………………………….145Silver Lake Fen State Preserve………………………………….147Silvers-Smith Woods State Preserve………………………………148Slinde Mounds State Preserve……………………………………149Merrill A. Stainbrook State Preserve…………………………….151Starr’s Cave State Preserve…………………………………….153Steele Prairie State Preserve…………………………………..155Nestor Stiles Prairie State Preserve…………………………….157Stinson Prairie State Preserve………………………………….159Strasser Woods State Preserve…………………………………..161Sylvan Runkel State Preserve……………………………………163Toolesboro Mounds State Preserve………………………………..165Turin Loess Hills State Preserve………………………………..167Turkey River Mounds State Preserve………………………………169White Pine Hollow State Preserve………………………………..171Williams Prairie State Preserve…………………………………173Wittrock Indian Village State Preserve…………………………..175Woodland Mounds State Preserve………………………………….177Woodman Hollow State Preserve…………………………………..179Woodthrush Woods State Preserve…………………………………181Appendix. Iowa State Preserves………………………………….183References……………………………………………………187

Chapter One

Ames High Prairie State Preserve Preserve 54 on map, page xii

The Richard W. Pohl Memorial Preserve at Ames High Prairie (popularly known more simply as “Ames High Prairie”) is a 22-acre preserve containing a small tall-grass prairie remnant. It is located on the west side of Ames High School within the city limits of Ames in Story County. The land was originally purchased by the school district in 1956 for use as a parking lot. In 1971, however, it was established as an environmental education area as the result of a popular vote in Ames. The property is presently leased by the Ames Unified School District to the Iowa chapter of The Nature Conservancy. It was dedicated as a biological state preserve in 1997.

Located in the Des Moines Lobe landform region, the preserve consists of tallgrass prairie and ravine woodland along Squaw Creek, a tributary of the Skunk River. Most of the prairie in the preserve occurs on relatively dry ridges and slopes. A small wooded stream flows through the preserve. Years ago, the prairie and the surrounding woodland were heavily grazed. The hilltop prairie near the entrance was once used for the storage of heavy equipment.

Nearly 100 plant species have been found at this preserve. Dominant grasses include big bluestem, Indian grass, sideoats grama, and prairie dropseed. In the spring, white false indigo and wild indigo are stately, and a large population of prairie dandelion can be found here. In the summer, the pale purple coneflower and prairie larkspur displays are remarkable. In the fall, the asters and rough and prairie blazing stars make a beautiful showing. Elm, hackberry, honey locust, and black locust are the dominant trees in the woodland, with Tartarian honeysuckle and poison ivy dominating the understory. The control of encroaching trees has been a constant challenge in the maintenance of the prairie.

Over 100 species of birds have been seen at the preserve, with about forty-five species residing in the area at one time or another, including brown thrasher, American goldfinch, and song sparrow. Migrant bird species include the least flycatcher, Swainson’s thrush, common yellowthroat, and white-throated sparrow. The rare regal fritillary and indigo duskywing butterflies have also been observed here.

The Nature Conservancy and the Iowa Prairie Network cosponsor prairie walks monthly starting in June and ending in September. Hunting is not permitted.

Other natural areas in the vicinity include Doolittle Prairie State Preserve and Ledges State Park.

DIRECTIONS

From the intersection of Highway 30 and I-35 on the east side of Ames, take I-35 north 2 miles to the 13th Street exit (exit 113). Go west (left) 2.5 miles to Grand Avenue. Turn north (right) and go 0.5 mile to 20th Street. Turn west (left) and drive 1 mile into the Ames High School parking lot. There is a small parking area near the preserve on the west side of the high school (sign: Richard W. Pohl Memorial Preserve at Ames High Prairie).

AREA MANAGER

The Nature Conservancy 108 3rd Street, Suite 300 Des Moines, IA 50309 (515) 244-5044 www.tnc.org/iowa iowa@tnc.org www.state.ia.us/parks State_Preserves@dnr.state.ia.us

Anderson Prairie State Preserve Preserve 6 on map, page xii

Anderson Prairie is a 200-acre preserve containing a native tallgrass prairie on the western edge of the Altamont moraine. It is located 4.5 miles northwest of Estherville in western Emmet County. Dr. Ada Hayden visited this prairie in 1945, which was being used as a hayfield and pasture at that time, and recommended that it be preserved. The Iowa Conservation Commission purchased the area in 1980 from William Anderson. It was dedicated in 1984 as a biological and geological state preserve.

Located near the western edge of the Des Moines Lobe landform region, Anderson Prairie lies in a hummocky landscape created by the melting of the Altamont glacier. A high diversity of prairie habitats is present in the preserve, ranging from very dry, gravelly hilltops to wet swales and marshes. Upland forest, floodplain forest, and disturbed habitats also add diversity. Although most of the preserve was formerly a pasture, the westernmost quarter is natural tallgrass prairie. Of the over 220 plant species in the preserve, the first to bloom in the spring is the pasqueflower, followed by prairie phlox, prairie violet, and hoary puccoon. The summer prairie contains butterfly weed, rattlesnake master, and prairie blazing star. The purples and golds of the late-blooming fall wildflowers are accented by the silvery-white sage. Fall wildflowers include asters, goldenrods, rough blazing star, and gentians.

Five rare butterflies have been found in the prairie, including Poweshiek skipperling, Arogos skipper, silvery blue, regal fritillary, and Iowa skipper. In late summer, masses of monarch butterflies arrive during their annual migration and often roost in the trees. Many other animals are found in the preserve, including twenty-two mammals, twenty-seven birds, and five amphibians and reptiles. Upland sandpipers have nested here and short-eared owls also use this large preserve.

Hunting is permitted.

Other nearby public areas include Crim Savanna and Ringham Habitat Area (both just north of the preserve). Recent state wildlife area acquisitions to the east of the preserve bring the total public land area in this vicinity to 800 acres.

DIRECTIONS

From the intersection of Highways 4 and 9 in Estherville, take Highway 9 west for 2.5 miles to 360th Avenue (watch for sign). Go north (right) 1 mile to intersection with County Highway A20 (beware of stop sign). Continue 0.5 mile north to the preserve parking area on the east side of the road (sign: Anderson Prairie State Preserve).

AREA MANAGER

Iowa Department of Natural Resources Ingham-High Wildlife Unit NRCS Office Building 2109 Murray Road Estherville, IA 51334 (712) 362-2091 www.state.ia.us/parks State_Preserves@dnr.state.ia.us

Behrens Ponds and Woodland State Preserve Preserve 58 on map, page xii

Karl W. Behrens Memorial Ponds and Woodland is a 29-acre preserve featuring a series of sandy ponds inhabited by the blue-spotted salamander, a rare species in Iowa. It is located 6 miles northwest of Cedar Rapids and 1.5 miles northwest of Toddville in Linn County. The property was deeded to The Nature Conservancy by Karl W. Behrens in 1977 and was dedicated as a biological state preserve in 1982.

Located on the Iowan Surface landform region, the natural features of this preserve are tied to the glacial history of the area. As the immense Wisconsinan glacier melted some 12,000 years ago, a variety of sediments were deposited in the nearby Cedar River valley. Sand from these alluvial deposits was later blown onto adjacent uplands to form gently rolling sand dunes. Today, the sandy soil found in the preserve provides a variety of habitats, including oak woodland, thickets, prairie openings, marshes, and several natural ponds.

The ponds and their surrounding woodlands provide excellent habitat for seventeen species of amphibians and reptiles, including the rare blue-spotted salamander. Other species include spring peeper, green frog, cricket frog, ribbon snake, and Dekay’s snake. Invertebrates in the ponds include freshwater sponges, bryozoans (“moss animals”), and many insects and crustaceans. Of three main ponds, the two smaller ones are one to three feet deep, and tend to dry up in the summer. The larger pond can be up to four feet deep. Wetland plants found here include mosquito fern, Sphagnum mosses, prairie cordgrass, spikerushes, sedges, rushes, arrowhead, and wood reed. The woodland in the north half of the preserve consists mainly of white, red, and black oaks and shagbark hickory. Woodland herbs include several sedges, enchanted nightshade, Virginia creeper, and bedstraw, along with several species of moss. Over 180 species of vascular plants have been documented from this preserve.

Coe College in nearby Cedar Rapids uses this preserve for scientific research and educational study. Hunting is not permitted.

Other natural areas in the vicinity include Hanging Bog, Rock Island, and Palisades- Dows State Preserves and Palisades-Kepler State Park.

DIRECTIONS

From the intersection of I-80 and I-380 near Iowa City, take I-380 north to exit 28 (to Toddville). Travel west (left) on County Home Road 1.2 miles into Toddville. Take 1st Street west (left) and continue on Toddville Road 0.3 mile to Feather Ridge Road (at a T-intersection). Go north (right) 1.3 miles to Ponds Lane. Go west (left) 0.4 mile to preserve (sign: Karl W. Behrens Memorial Ponds and Woodland).

AREA MANAGER

The Nature Conservancy 108 3rd Street, Suite 300 Des Moines, IA 50309 (515) 244-5044 www.tnc.org/iowa iowa@tnc.org www.state.ia.us/parks State_Preserves@dnr.state.ia.us

Berry Woods State Preserve Preserve 81 on map, page xii

Berry Woods is a 42-acre preserve containing an upland oak woodland. It is located 4.5 miles northwest of Indianola in Warren County. Don L. Berry deeded the woodland in 1961 to the Iowa chapter of The Nature Conservancy in honor of his grandfather and father, who had owned and protected this wood for over ninety years. It was dedicated as a biological state preserve in 1980.

Located in the Southern Iowa Drift Plain landform region, Berry Woods occupies the bluffs along the south side of the Middle River. It is dominated by mature white oak, red oak, basswood, and shagbark hickory. Ironwood is the most common understory tree along with Ohio buckeye. Beneath the forest canopy is a diverse understory layer of over 150 species with a spectacular array of spring wildflowers. In early spring, bloodroot, hepatica, and wild geranium make a good showing. By summer thimbleweed, starry campion, and Indian plantain bloom. Fall is abloom with goldenrods and asters, along with the saprophyte Indian pipe.

In 1968, Mr. Berry reminisced about the property:

It was, I think eighty-four years ago this coming summer that I took the first hike in it that I can remember. I was four years old. It was my Grand-father Berry’s firewood, post, and rail supply ground. In making the transfer I felt that nothing I could do for the memory of my father and grandfather could be more pleasing to them than to have that tract kept in perpetuity as a nature preserve. I wish you could see it when the bloodroots are in bloom. I haunt the place from the first warm weather in March or April until the bloodroots come, for they come and go so quickly that one misses them if not constantly on the watch. One day there are none. The next day they are scattered thick, and in less than a week, they are gone.

At least forty-two species of birds have been seen in the preserve, including the tufted titmouse, yellow-billed cuckoo, scarlet tanager, and brown creeper. Smooth earth snakes, American toads, and chorus frogs also are found here with common sightings of red fox, white-tailed deer, fox squirrel, and eastern chipmunk.

Berry Woods was the first nature preserve acquired by the Iowa chapter of The Nature Conservancy. Biology classes from Simpson College use the preserve in their studies. Hunting is not permitted.

Other natural areas in the vicinity include Woodland Mounds and Rolling Thunder Prairie State Preserves and Lake Ahquabi State Park.

DIRECTIONS

From the intersection of Highway 65 and Highway 69 on the south edge of Des Moines, drive south 5 miles on the combined Highway 65/69 to County Highway G24. Turn west (right) and drive 1.5 miles west to 115th Avenue. Turn south (left) onto 115th Avenue and drive 1.75 miles to the preserve on the east side of the road (sign: Berry Woods). Access is through a gate in the fence.

AREA MANAGER

The Nature Conservancy 108 3rd Street, Suite 300 Des Moines, IA 50309 (515) 244-5044 www.tnc.org/iowa iowa@tnc.org www.state.ia.us/parks State_Preserves@dnr.state.ia.us

Bird Hill State Preserve Preserve 24 on map, page xii

Bird Hill is a 1-acre preserve featuring a fossil-rich outcrop of soft limestone and shale. It is located on the south side of 190th Street, eight miles southwest of Nora Springs in eastern Cerro Gordo County. It was once known as “Fossil Hill” because of the fossils found here. It was purchased by the Cerro Gordo County Conservation Board from the Bird family, after whom the area was named. This roadcut was dedicated as a geological state preserve in 1984 to recognize its diverse, abundant, well-preserved marine fauna and its historic significance as a collecting site. This site is one of three primary reference areas for the world-renowned Lime Creek fossil fauna of northern Iowa.

The Devonian (375-million-year-old) Lime Creek Formation consists of lime-rich deposits left in an ancient tropical sea. This geologic formation was named and described for natural exposures along the Winnebago River, which was originally called “Lime Creek.” The Lime Creek Formation is divided into three members (see figure): Juniper Hill, Cerro Gordo, and Owen. The soft limestones and shales of the Cerro Gordo and overlying Owen Members are exposed here, and the abundant fossils in these strata provide an important record of the marine life during Upper Devonian time. A variety of fossils, including brachiopods (shellfish) and molds of gastropods (snails) and pelecypods (clams) are found here, as well as solitary horn corals, colonial corals, and stromatoporoids (sponges). In addition, bryozoans (“moss animals”) and echinoderm (starfish family) debris can be seen, along with crinoids (“sea lilies”), the chambered shells of squidlike cephalopods, some trilobites, and numerous microscopic invertebrates. About 2.5 feet of the basal portion of the Owen Member, a more resistant limestone, is seen at the top of the exposure. The Owen also contains abundant fossils.

The exceptional fossils at this site are continually exposed by natural weathering processes, and collecting is permitted.

Other related geological areas in the vicinity include Claybanks Forest State Preserve and the Floyd County Fossil and Prairie Area.

DIRECTIONS

From the intersection of I-35 and Highway 18 southwest of Mason City, drive east on Highway 18 for 16 miles to County Road S70 (Zinnia Avenue). This local road is on the border between Cerro Gordo and Floyd Counties just southwest of the town of Nora Springs. Turn south (right) onto S70 (Zinnia Avenue) and go south 5 miles to 190th Street. Turn west (right) and go 0.25 mile to the preserve on the north side of road. A parking area is available.

AREA MANAGER

Cerro Gordo County Conservation Board 3501 Lime Creek Road Mason City, IA 50401 (641) 423-5309 www.state.ia.us/parks State_Preserves@dnr.state.ia.us

Bixby State Preserve Preserve 31 on map, page xii

Bixby State Park is a 184-acre preserve containing a rugged forested area along the Silurian Escarpment. It is located in southwestern Clayton County, just north of the town of Edgewood. In 1854, the Bixby family established a homestead here. They allowed the public to use a scenic area on their farm as a park, free of charge. In 1926, the Iowa Conservation Commission purchased the land after residents from the nearby town of Edgewood petitioned to make “Bixby’s Park” into a state park. The park was dedicated in 1979 as a biological and geological state preserve.

Bear Creek flows through the preserve in a steep, narrow valley, one of many along the Silurian Escarpment, a belt of rugged bluffs marking the southwestern edge of the Paleozoic Plateau landform region. This small trout stream is fed by many springs along its course, eventually joining the Turkey River several miles downstream. Rising on each side of the stream are 200-foot bluffs of dolomite (magnesium- rich limestone). At the base of the slopes is an accumulation of rock rubble, or “talus.” The north-facing bluffs found here receive little direct sunlight, and are also full of interconnecting fissures and crevices with a steady flow of cool, moist air. In some places, cold air flows out of the fissures onto sloping talus deposits, forming unusual habitats called algific talus slopes that support several rare species of plants an snails.

Bixby State Preserve is well known for its ice cave, a large, partially mined fissure with a strong flow of very cold air. It is located a short distance east of the picnic shelter. The cave entrance was enlarged by two men who were purportedly prospecting for lead in the late 1800s. Ice is present in the cave most of the year, forming in the spring as snowmelt, and rain infiltrates the rock from above and freezes in contact with the cold walls of the cave. Melting takes place by late summer in most years, but ice generally remains in the back recesses of the cave. Even during the heat of the summer, temperature of the cave entrance hovers around 52 degrees.

Bixby State Preserve may contain the highest diversity of plants of any Iowa woodland, with over 380 native vascular plant species. The steep slopes are covered with mature oaks, sugar maple, and basswood. Canada yew covers the north-facing slopes along much of the valley. Leatherwood, an uncommon shrub, is also found on these slopes. In spring, snow trillium, wild ginger, Dutchman’s breeches, and bellwort, as well as many others, cover the forest floor. By summer, purple joe-pye-weed can be seen blooming. In the fall, asters, goldenrods, Indian pipe, and fall coralroot orchid can be found here.

The preserve is open to hiking and picnicking in designated areas. Hunting is not permitted.

Other natural areas along the Silurian Escarpment are Brush Creek Canyon, Mossy Glen, and White Pine Hollow State Preserves, and Echo Valley State Park.

DIRECTIONS

From the intersection of North Franklin Street and Highway 3 in the town of Edgewood, follow North Franklin Street north to 390th Street. North Franklin Street becomes Fortune Avenue outside of town. Continue north on Fortune Avenue (sign: Bixby State Park) to a parking area on the east side of the road, just north of Bear Creek.

AREA MANAGER

Iowa Department of Natural Resources Backbone State Park 1347 129th Street Dundee, IA 52038 (563) 924-2527 Backbone@dnr.state.ia.us www.state.ia.us/parks State_Preserves@dnr.state.ia.us

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Excerpted from THE GUIDE TO IOWA’S STATE PRESERVESby Ruth Herzberg John Pearson Copyright © 2001 by University of Iowa Press. Excerpted by permission.
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