CELEBRATING SPRING’S ARRIVAL
Raw beet salad
Sauteed red snapper with rhubarb sauce
New potatoes with butter and mint
Coeurs a la creme with strawberries
Here is a menu that could not be made in any season other than spring–at least not with truly fresh ingredients. Mint is up out of the ground, strawberries are everywhere, rhubarb is at the height of its short run, and beets are young, small, and delicious. The meal is a simple festival.
Keys to success
*To prepare the rhubarb, first “string” it. Hold the stalk in one hand. In the other, cut through the end with a small knife, stopping it short of cutting all the way through by pressing the flat of the blade against your thumb. Pull down the length of the stalk and the strings will come with it. This is a refinement, but a worthwhile one.
*For the snapper, substitute sea or striped bass, grouper, or rockfish.
*To make this menu somewhat more elaborate, add a soup, like Pan-Roasted Asparagus Soup with Tarragon (page 000) or Pea-and-Ginger Soup (page 000).
Wine
A crisp white would be best, like a Chablis or comparable California Chardonnay, or even something lighter, like Pinot Grigio.
The timetable
*The dessert should be made the day before, so that will be out of the way except for the final assembly, which you can tackle while your guests relax for a little while after dinner.
*Prepare the beets first, and let them sit while you start the potatoes and the rhubarb sauce.
*When the potatoes are nearly done, toss the beets with their dressing. Finish the potatoes and cook the fish at the same time; serve beets, potatoes, and fish together.
RAW BEET SALAD
Use young, small beets if you can find them. And wear an apron or old clothes; you will inevitably spatter some juice.
Makes 8 servings
Time: 20 minutes
2 pounds beets, preferably small
2 large shallots
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, or to taste
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup sherry vinegar or other good strong vinegar
Minced fresh parsley, dill, chervil, rosemary, or tarragon
1. Peel the beets and the shallots. Combine them in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade, and pulse carefully until the beets are chopped; do not puree. (Or grate the beets by hand and mince the shallots; combine.) Scrape into a bowl.
2. Toss with the salt, pepper, mustard, oil, and vinegar. Taste, and adjust the seasoning. Toss in the herbs, and serve.
SAUTEED RED SNAPPER WITH RHUBARB SAUCE
The addition of saffron not only adds a mysterious flavor but gives the rhubarb a golden glow. Saffron is expensive, but not outrageous if bought in quantity; an ounce will last you years.
Makes 8 servings
Time: 40 minutes
2 pounds rhubarb, rinsed and trimmed, strings removed 2/3 cup sugar, or to taste Large pinch of saffron, optional Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1/4 cup olive oil 1/4 cup unsalted butter or use more oil Eight 6-ounce fillets red snapper Chopped fresh mint or parsley, optional
1. Combine the rhubarb, sugar, and saffron, if you are using it, in a medium saucepan, cover, and turn the heat to low. Cook, stirring only occasionally, for about 20 minutes, or until the rhubarb becomes saucy. Add salt and pepper to taste and a little more sugar if necessary; if the mixture is very soupy continue to cook a little longer to make it thicker.
2. When you judge the rhubarb to be nearly done, put a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-high heat. (You can either use two skillets or cook in batches; undercook the first batch slightly and keep it warm in a 200 degreesF oven while you cook the second batch.) A minute later, add the oil and butter (you may need a bit more of each if using two pans); when the butter foam subsides, add the fillets, skin side down. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the fish is nearly done; turn carefully and lightly brown the flesh side. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels to absorb excess oil.
3. Serve the fish napped with a bit of the sauce and garnished, if you like, with the herb.
NEW POTATOES WITH BUTTER AND MINT
Mint makes a huge difference here, countering the potatoes’ earthiness with its bright flavor.
Makes 8 servings
Time: 40 minutes
About 4 pounds new red or white potatoes, the smaller the better, skins on and scrubbed
Several mint sprigs, plus minced fresh mint leaves
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, or more to taste
1. Place the potatoes in a pot with salted water to cover; turn the heat to high and bring to a boil. Add the mint sprigs and turn the heat down to medium. Cook at a gentle boil until the potatoes are nice and tender, 20 to 40 minutes depending on their size.
2. Drain the potatoes and return them to the pot over the lowest heat possible. Add the butter and cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until all traces of moisture have disappeared, about 5 minutes. Garnish with the minced mint leaves and serve hot.
COEURS A LA CREME WITH STRAWBERRIES
“Hearts of Cream” (heart-shaped molds are traditional), a lovely, classic dessert, and one that takes very little attention or work.
Makes 8 servings
Time: 24 hours, largely unattended
1 pound cream cheese 2 cups full-fat yogurt 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 11/2 cups sugar, or more if needed 2 quarts strawberries, rinsed, hulled, and sliced
1. Use a fork or blender to cream together the cream cheese, yogurt, vanilla, and half the sugar. (If you use a blender and the mixture is too thick, add a little heavy cream or milk.) The mixture should be quite smooth. Place in a fine-mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth or a clean dish towel, and place the strainer over a bowl. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
2. About a half hour before serving, toss the strawberries with the remaining sugar and let sit at room temperature. Turn the cream cheese mixture out onto a plate and divide into eight portions or place some of the mixture in each of eight bowls. Mix the berries, if you like, with a little more sugar.
3. Serve the coeurs a la creme topped with the berry mixture.
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